[Note: this transcription was produced by an automatic OCR engine]

AMBRYM 203

grouped irregularly in a clearing; a little apart, on
a square by themselves, are the houses of the secret
societies, surrounded by images and large drums.
The dwelling-houses are rather poor—looking huts,
with low walls and roofs and an exceedingly small
entrance which is only to be passed through on one’s
hands and knees. Decency demands that the women
should always enter the houses backward, and this
occasions funny sights, as they look out of their huts
like so many dogs from their kennels.

As a rule, the first event on my entering a village
was that the women and children ran away shrieking
and howling; those not quite so near me stared
suspiciously, then retired slowly or began to giggle.
Then a few men would appear, quite accidentally,
of course, and some curious BOYS followed. My
servants gave information as to my person and
purpose, and huge laughter was the result: they
always thought me perfectly mad. However, they
admired me from all sides, and asked all sorts of
questions of my BOYS: what was my name, where
did I live, was I kind, was I rich, what did I have to
eat, did I smoke or drink, how many shirts and
trousers did I have, how many guns and what kinds,
etc. The end of it was, that they either took me for
a dangerous sorcerer, and withdrew in fear, or for a
fool to be got the better of. In the latter case, they
would run eagerly to their houses and bring out some
old broken article to offer for sale. A few sarcastic
remarks proved useful; but it was always some time
before they realized what I wanted. The fine old